The models we’ve seen are inelegant, leaving a little nub sticking out of the side of a laptop when the cable is disconnected. We then ran a free system-performance app called AJA System Test Lite on the laptop to measure read and write speeds in MB/s . To test power draw, we used the 13-inch laptop, a Satechi ammeter, and a first-generation Google Pixel phone, and we noted the maximum power-draw readings on the ammeter as well as on the laptop’s System Report. Unlike on Apple’s cables, the plastic housings that join the metal connectors to the Anker PowerLine II cables seem sturdy and robust, built to withstand bending or fraying even with frequent use. Compared with most of the other cables we tested, these cables make a satisfying click when plugged into a USB-C port and have minimal wiggling, ensuring a solid connection. If you have a device with a USB-C port—such as a MacBook or other compatible laptop, an iPad Pro, a Nintendo Switch, or an Android phone—you need a cable to charge it and to transfer data to and from other devices. Unfortunately, when it comes to USB-C, even cables that look identical can behave very differently—for instance, a cable that charges your phone at top speed might be sluggish at transferring music files, or vice versa. We’ve tested 78 cables and 16 adapters to help you find the right one for your needs without overspending.
The Monoprice USB to Micro USB + USB Type-C + Lightning Charge & Sync Cable was a close second to our Anker pick. Like Anker’s version, it’s MFi-certified, 3 feet long, and backed by a lifetime warranty. It has a nice, slim design, so it’s compact and portable—which is key, since we really recommend three-in-one cables only as a travel or backup option. Its adapters were the easiest to plug in and unplug of any we tried, too. Its downfall was a series of errors in our Total Phase tests, whereas our pick had none. The Aukey CB-A1-2 USB 3.0 USB-C to USB-A Adapter is the most streamlined, functional nub-style adapter we’ve found. It’s just over an inch in length, which is nice if you’re short on space, and it can carry up to 60 W of power. This type of adapter tends to wiggle around more in the port, though, making it slightly more likely to disconnect while in use. Of those we tried, the Anker PowerLine II 3-in-1 Cable was the clear winner. It’s MFi-certified, it got top marks in our power-draw and data-transfer tests (like every three-in-one cable we tested, it supports only USB 2.0 data speeds), and it seems well made.
Original Thunderbolt ports (“Thunderbolt 1”) only support daisy-chaining via the Thunderbolt protocol, with a maximum of 2 displays. Non-Thunderbolt monitors cannot be used while daisy-chaining displays, even if they support daisy-chaining via DisplayPort MST. Both monitors must support Thunderbolt. When connected to a Thunderbolt 3 display, video will be transmitted using the Thunderbolt protocol (in either 20 Gbit/s or 40 Gbit/s mode, depending on device support). interface, so the data transfer capability and video transfer capability cannot both be used at maximum capacity at the same time. Some Thunderbolt controllers may also support dual Thunderbolt 3 ports, which must share the PCIe and DisplayPort connections to the system. Usually when a Thunderbolt 3 port supports the full 8-lane configuration, it is part of a dual-port set controlled by the same chip, and only 8 lanes total are available which are shared by both ports. In these systems, if one Thunderbolt 3 port consumes all 8 lanes then video output will be disabled entirely on the second port. In general, the image quality of VGA is acceptable and usually difficult to distinguish from DVI, HDMI, and DisplayPort, but it depends on the specific situation and equipment. VGA signals can be degraded by electromagnetic interference, so the image quality may suffer depending on the quality of shielding in the VGA cable.
However, there is no need to shop for expensive “high-quality” cables hoping to get one that can handle as much as possible. It’s worth pointing out the HDMI ports on your devices have limits too, based on the version; For example, HDMI 1.4 ports have a maximum of 10.2 Gbit/s, and HDMI 2.0 ports have a maximum of 18.0 Gbit/s. You won’t get more bandwidth than that out of those ports no matter what cable you use, so getting cables that advertise super high bandwidth (“27.0 Gbit/s!”) won’t give you any benefit compared to an 18.0 Gbit/s cable. As long as the cable is good enough to handle the maximum bandwidth of your ports, there’s nothing further to be gained from a better cable. HDMI cables, for the most part, all have the same internal design, the same wiring layout, etc. There is one exception to that which is the “HDMI with Ethernet” cable; these are wired slightly differently .
If the card inserted into the slot does not match the backplane connector, the interface will not function. The intra-building port of the equipment or subassembly is suitable for connection to intra-building or unexposed wiring or cabling only. The intra-building port of the equipment or subassembly MUST NOT be metallically connected to interfaces that connect to the Outside Plant or its wiring. These interfaces are designed for use as intra-building interfaces only (Type 2 or Type 4 ports as described in GR-1089-CORE, Issue 4) and require isolation from the exposed OSP cabling. The addition of Primary Protectors is not sufficient protection in order to connect these interfaces metallically to OSP wiring. Below you can see the differences between DVI-A, DVI-I, and DVI-D connectors. DVI-I has four extra pins that carry an analog signal, which is absent in the DVI-D connector. Most of these display converters are unidirectional, which means they are one-way converters. For example, a DisplayPort to HDMI adapter converts DisplayPort signal to HDMI and cannot be used to convert DVI to HDMI signal. The only bidirectional converter cable is the HDMI to DVI, which can also be used for DVI to HDMI conversion.
This ensures you have the right size of cable available when you need it and it lets you color code your connections for a more organized setup. This 6-foot black patch cable is perfect for standard applications such as connecting from a wall jack to your laptop docking station or desktop computer. This Cat6 cable delivers reliable Gigabit network connections, which ensures high-performance capability for your demanding Ethernet applications. The firewire cable, and the thunderbolt adapter, worth $20 or so. Item has the wear of home use, illustrated by the photos. USB converters are compact, external components that connect a device without USB function and convert it for use with other USB technology such as a port or device. Webcams, card readers, and Internet or LAN connections may require a USB adapter. ZN069Toyota mechanical key (H-type) adapter setSet of adapters that is required for the key programming of H-type mechanical keys (DST-AES). Connect consumer electronics or DJ equipment to a mixer or interface that has 1/4″ inputs with the Pig Hog RCA female to 1/4″ male dual-mono adapter 2-pack.
These Category 6A Shielded Panel Mount Keystone Couplers are 8-Position 8-Conductor and will live up to your expectations time and time again. Networx® Decorex Faceplate Inserts are the perfect addition for any network installation. Cover up those unsightly holes in the wall while organizing your network for quick and easy access. Networx® Faceplates are the perfect addition for any network installation. Vivid AV® 1 Meter HDMI to DVI-D Cable offers the highest quality digital picture and is completely HDCP compliant. The RTZ Releasable Cable Tie is the revolutionary new cable tie from RETYZ™. This design combines the high strength of nylon zip ties with a newly designed Releasable head.
The special design of the cable adapter makes it tangle-free and flexible. Our cable and adapter recommendations will help you connect your new USB-C laptop to any a monitor or projector with a VGA, DVI, DisplayPort, or HDMI port. We’ve tested the best cables, hubs, and dongles to help you connect your all your peripherals to your new laptop, even if it has only USB-C ports. To test the data-transfer capabilities of USB-C–to–USB-A cables, we plugged the USB-C end into the 13-inch laptop and the USB-A end into an Aukey USB-C–to–USB-A adapter. We then plugged the adapter into the Samsung T3 and ran AJA System Test Lite. To test power draw, we used the ammeter, the Pixel, and one of our favorite travel-size multiport USB wall chargers and noted the maximum power-draw readings on the ammeter.
If you also need the audio, like on a monitor that has speakers or an older TV that uses VGA, you will need a second cord. HDMI to VGA adapters are built to use a3.5mm cableso that the audio can go through a headphone jack. Before installing any cable use this procedure to label the cables to ensure connection to the proper ports and ease of future maintenance. If you have an older monitor, you’ll want this adapter, which splits the MacBook’s USB-C port into a USB-C passthrough for power, a VGA video-out, and a USB-A 3.1 data transfer cable. Most people should get the HDMI cable, though—it’s more flexible. This 29-watt power adapter can power a new MacBook, but probably also an iPad or iPhone, with the right cables. With only one port on the MacBook, docks and hubs will probably become important.
Thunderbolt 3 inputs will only accept video from a Thunderbolt 3 source, or a Thunderbolt or Thunderbolt 2 source via an adapter. 8-lane operation, which is necessary for higher modes like 5K 60 Hz, will require cables rated for 40 Gbit/s. There are no special “Thunderbolt 3 to VGA” adapters needed. There are no special “Thunderbolt 3 to DVI” adapters needed. There are no special “Thunderbolt 3 to HDMI” adapters needed. There are no special “Thunderbolt 3 to DisplayPort” adapters needed. A cable with a 10 Gbit/s or 20 Gbit/s rating should be used. A 10 Gbit/s cable is sufficient for formats up to around 1920×1080 @ 144 Hz, 2560×1600 @ 60 Hz, or 3840×2160 @ 30 Hz, or lower. Higher formats like 4K 60 Hz will require cables rated for 20 Gbit/s. ports that do not have this feature cannot output video.
In our power-draw tests, the Aukey CB-CMD3 USB-A to USB-C Cable performed well, and it achieved full USB 3.1 Gen 2 data-transfer speeds. But it isn’t USB-IF certified, it’s only 3.3 feet long, and the Total Phase Advanced Cable Tester reported a signal-integrity error in our testing. The Anker PowerLine+ USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable performed well in our tests, and its braided cable makes it a bit sturdier than both our Belkin and Anker PowerLine II picks. But it’s not USB-IF certified, and as electrical engineer Lee Johnson demonstrated for our guide to the best Lightning cables, most people don’t need such a rugged design. The Anker PowerLine USB-C to USB 3.0 Cable was the longest cable we tested in this category. Also, due in part to its impressive length, it’s extremely bulky. Although the Apple Thunderbolt 3 (USB-C) Cable performed no worse than our Anker pick in our testing, it has a shorter warranty and costs more. Plus, according to sources such as AppleInsider, any Thunderbolt 3 cable longer than about 1.6 feet (like this one, which is 2.6 feet) can’t provide top data-transfer speeds. Apple’s USB-C Charge Cable is half the length and twice the price of our Cable Matters pick, and it’s not USB-IF certified. Although its slim design makes it more compact and portable than our pick, it feels notably underbuilt compared with the competition—it’s as slim as Apple’s standard Lightning cable and has less reinforcement at the cuff.